FAQ

My Azalea has finished blooming. If I plant it outdoors will it come back in the spring?

The Azalea that you purchased from us is a florist Azalea. They are not hardy outdoors except in the warmest parts of the U.S. (zones 8-10). The probability of your Azalea surviving winter conditions outside of these zones is doubtful.

My Azalea has finished blooming. How do I get it to re-flower?

Re-flowering of a florist Azalea can be difficult. Many people chose to simply discard their azalea once it’s finished blooming.

However, if you wish to try here are a few tips:

Keep the plant in a bright, sunny location and continue to water. Start fertilizing with an acidic fertilizer every two weeks. If the leaves turn yellow between the veins, apply a chelated iron product according to package directions.

In order to form flower buds and ultimately bloom again, your azalea will need 5-6 weeks of night temperatures between 5°C and 12°C. Some or all, of this temperature requirement can be met outdoors in the fall depending on the year. However, when frost threatens, the plant must be moved indoors and grown under a cool night regimen. That’s the tricky part. Warmer temperatures will cause a skimpy supply of flowers. Tiny green shoots may develop

Once flower buds are well developed, after 5 or 6 weeks of “cold treatment”, move the plant to a sunny window. Your azalea should bloom again for several weeks in its new location.

My pot of bulbs (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, iris, mini daffodils, and muscari) has finished flowering. Can I plant it outdoors and have it come back next spring?

With the exception of daffodils, we do advise against it as they’re unlikely to flower again. However, it is not impossible and some gardeners have success. Why not give it a try…

After blooming, cut off the flower stalks and continue to water as needed until the leaves turn yellow. Then withhold water, cut leaves back and put the entire pot in a cool (10 degree Celsius), dark place until late early Autumn. Then plant the bulbs outdoors. Be sure to fertilize

All of my shade impatiens died. They were looking great, and within one week they completely de-foliated.

Since 2012 gardeners from all over North America have reported that the impatiens in their landscape showed signs of a disease known as downy mildew. This pathogen can attack plants even when they appear to be growing nicely. With the right weather conditions (cool temperatures and plenty of moisture), downy mildew can infect a patch of impatiens seemingly overnight. European gardeners have been dealing with this problem for several years since the pathogen can overwinter in the soil.

There is no quick fix. Your only option is to find an alternative. We are recommending SunPatiens. These remarkable plants represent a breakthrough in flower breeding: robust, sun–loving, heat–loving impatiens that thrive in full sun or part shade. One single plant can grow up to 36” wide! Ask for them at your local Garden Center or Big Box Store.